16 October 2015
On the morning of my 57th birthday I watched the sun rise over Algieria: a dazzling sliver of fuchsia – like the iridescent breast of a hummingbird – peeking through the irregular mountains of North Africa, shooting peachy hues onto the cliffs of Cabo Tinoso.
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| @1912 replica map from www.maps.com |
The Mediterranean air was cool and the hills of Cartagena shrouded in clouds as we set sail. In time, the land features faded into the mist. The setting was non-descript: we could have been anywhere in the world. And I have been: Tahiti, France, Argentina, Hawaii, El Salvador, Scotland, South Africa, Thailand, Tierra del Fuego ... the list goes on. I’ve traveled to a mind-boggling number of incredible places – not, perhaps, the life I planned, but the life that has unfolded before me, for which I am thankful.
AFTERNOON
The day progressed beautifully. After lunch and birthday cake – a chocolate tart – I napped on the trampoline in the emerging sun. I showered. I caught a fish – a smallish dorado, just the right size for dinner. Dolphins appeared and we ran forward to watch the display, sitting at the bow in the afternoon sun; the boat scooting along at 9knots; the small pod of common dolphin racing our amas (they won) with one particular show-off jettisoning out of the water, landing sideways with a splash, over and over again.
The day progressed beautifully. After lunch and birthday cake – a chocolate tart – I napped on the trampoline in the emerging sun. I showered. I caught a fish – a smallish dorado, just the right size for dinner. Dolphins appeared and we ran forward to watch the display, sitting at the bow in the afternoon sun; the boat scooting along at 9knots; the small pod of common dolphin racing our amas (they won) with one particular show-off jettisoning out of the water, landing sideways with a splash, over and over again.
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| Watching dolphins on the bow. Photo: Annie Gardner-Witte |
I told Annie the only thing that could possibly make it better would be if a Navy Seal parachuted onboard with a case of chilled Veuve Cliquot. Naked. But all told I think it’s a pretty memorable day.

